Supra TT Single Conversion Instructions

**Kirk** · 11-07-2007, 04:03 PM

Boostlogic T67 Installation Guide
Thanks to Mike Lee for taking the time to do this writeup.
Installation Tips

- Refer to the manual for torque specs and other information, if needed.
- Loosely fit everything first, the last thing you want to do is torque everything down and have something not fit right.
- Use common sense, and make sure no electrical connections or hoses are directly in contact with the manifold or downpipe.

The following is a set of instructions for installing a Boostlogic turbo kit.
Removing the stock twins
If you still have stock twins, then you will soon find out that removing them is a lot of work. There are many resources available on http://www.supraforums.com/ for removing the stock turbos.
This is where we will begin the installation process. Your engine should pretty much look like this with the stock turbos removed:

Before proceeding, now would be a good time to clean your engine block, as more of it will be exposed after a single turbo conversion. Just make sure you plug your exhaust ports so nothing accidentally goes in there!
Now lets take care of a few things before putting the manifold on.
Oil return line
Your kit should have came with the fittings required for the oil feed and return lines. On the exhaust side of the engine, right above the oil pan, there is a flange that has a long pipe connected to it, running along the side of the block. This is the stock oil return. This pipe is going to be removed completely.
- Remove the two 12mm nuts, and take off the whole pipe. Preserve the metal gasket, as it will be used for the new oil return line.
The hole in the center of the picture is what you should have now once you remove the hose.

One of the two flanges(the oval flange) supplied with the kit will be used here, along with the blue 45-degree AN fitting. Use teflon paste or tape on the NPT side of the fitting. Make sure you screw in the AN fitting to the flange first, since it will be difficult to turn it once you bolt the flange on. When the AN fitting screwed in, make sure it is facing upwards, like in the picture. Otherwise, you may have some fitment issues when you screw the AN-10 line in. Insert the flange onto the two studs, and secure using the factory nuts you removed earlier. You now have setup the oil return port on the block. USE FACTORY GASKET!
Torque specs: Hand Tight

Oil feed line
In your kit, you should have a bolt where the AN-3 braided line screws into. The other side of this bolt screws into the block. There are two ports on the block, one in the front and one in the rear. These ports had banjo bolts going to them. Now, we will use the FRONT port to feed oil to the turbo. Using the supplied bolt, screw it into the front oil feed port. There is a bolt that is supplied for the rear port. Use this bolt to plug the hole. Use the stock crush washer to prevent oil leaks!!

Block Rear Oil Port
Towards the rear of the block, you will find an oil port that used to have a banjo bolt going inside it. This is going to be blocked off (#1 in the picture), since will only use the front oil port to feed oil to the turbo. The kit came with a black bolt (it may look like it was cut) that will be inserted into this port. Put a stock crush washer on from the factory banjo bolt. The other nipple, #2 in the picture below, is a drain plug. It doesn't need to be capped off, since the bolt directly to the left of it controls that, but I capped mine off anyway.

Heater Hose Modification
Now if you look towards the rear of the engine, you will see some heater hoses that look like a giant mess of spaghetti. I went to Autozone and purchased a couple new hoses to clean this mess up. Remove all of the hoses first, and you should see two ports on the firewall after doing so. Rerun a new hose from the rear of the engine (the arrow on the far right) to the LEFT firewall port. Then run another hose from the coolant pipe to the RIGHT firewall port. Make sure these hoses are clamped down good, but be careful not to bend the delicate coolant nipples on the firewall. Also, make sure the heater hose doesn't come near the downpipe. In our situation, the hose curved immediately after connecting to the coolant pipe, so it doesn't travel behind the DP. It may even be wise to wrap these hoses in heat insulation material.

**Kirk** · 11-07-2007, 04:04 PM

Block off existing coolant ports
You will find a bunch of nipples left over after removing the stock turbos. These most likely are coolant ports that need to be capped off. Use a rubber hose and put a bolt through one end with some good sealant, then clamp the other end of the hose down on the nipple. Make sure the bolt fits into the hose tightly, or it will leak. We grinded the threads down to a smooth finish so coolant couldn't run through the threads. Don't use vacuum caps to seal off coolant ports! They crack after time!
Towards the front of the engine, there are 3 coolant ports that need to be blocked off. For the water neck pipe with the 2 nipples on it, we temporarily connected a hose to both ports and clamped the hose down, until we can get a replacement pipe that has the nipples welded shut. The other port is towards the top of the alternator. Make sure these is sealed really good, since we don't want anything leaking onto the alternator.

Now block off 3 ports (the 3 arrows on the left side of the picture) towards the rear of the block, two which only require vacuum caps that lead to the unused pressure tank on the other side of the engine. The 3rd port, is hard to see since it is behind the heater hose, but make sure this gets blocked off, and use a clamp. The vacuum caps don't require clamps since the pressure tank will not be used. Edited by Kean: The port off the engine block (the rightmost arrow) doesn't need to be blocked like it is in the picture. It is a drain for the block and does not drain any fluid until you loosen the drain bolt.

Now double check everything to make sure all hoses are clamped down and all plugs / bolts are torqued down. These will be more difficult to access once the manifold is on. Any last minute cleaning should be done now as well.
Manifold Fitment
-Mount the wastegate to the manifold now. Make sure the gasket that was supplied is used. When bolting the wastegate on, face the open side of the wastegate away from the manifold. It should be pointing directly opposite of the header (see pic). Leave the dump tube off for now. Also, use two NPT fittings that were supplied to screw into the holes towards the buttom and side of the wastegate. Be sure to use teflon past or tape on these NPT fittings! These will be your vacuum line for a boost controller. Make sure the nipple is facing away from the enginge block and downpipe. Route the boost hose beneath the motor mount towards the front of the car, then to your boost controller solenoid. It is important that these hoses are kept away from major sources of heat, such as the turbo manifold, wastegate dump tube and downpipe.
Torque Specs for wastegate bolts: Hand Tight

Grinding manifold studs
In order for the manifold to fit properly, you will need to grind down the heads of a few studs that the manifold will slide into. Most likely, you will need to grind down the #2, #4,#5 and #6 studs, with #1 being the stud closest to the front of the car. If this is not done, then tightening the manifold can cause the studs to hit the manifold. About 1/8" needs to be shaved off from the stud, but it can vary. It is best to fit the manifold and determine how much the studs need to be grinded down for better accuracy.

Tightening down the Manifold
Now that all prepping is done, the manifold can be bolted on and torqued down. The existing exhaust manifold gasket can be re-used, since it is a multi layered metal gasket. Go ahead and put the manifold on and screw the nuts on. The easiest way to get the nuts on is to tilt the manifold and start with the bottom studs first. Once those have been started, you can move to the top studs.
Torque Specs: Factory exhaust manifold specs from the manual
Turbo Install
Now we are ready to install the turbo! The kit came with a bunch of nuts and bolts. There is a stud that has no head on it. This will screw into the rear hole closest to the engine. Go ahead and screw this in fairly tight, as it will be used to secure the turbo.

Now remove the turbo compressor/wheel from the exhaust housing. Simply undo the bolts surrounding the exhaust housing and pull the wheel out.

It is easiest to start with installing just the exhaust housing, and working from there. Take the exhaust housing and bolt it to the manifold. Use the bolts and lock-washers supplied with the kit. There should be 3 shorter bolts that will be used, and one nut. Don't forget the gasket that was supplied with the kit!
Once bolting down the exhaust housing, you should see this:

Make sure all bolts and the one nut are torqued down extremely well.
Now put the compressor back into the exhaust housing and secure it with the bolts previously removed. These bolts should be relatively tight, but don't over-tigthen.

Now fasten the oil return and oil feed lines. If you haven't already done so, bolt the flange w/ the NPT/AN adapter fitting to the turbo. Make sure the fitting is facing outward and make sure it is tight. Use a teflon sealant for this fitting.

Install turbo housing
Simply place the housing over the compressor, and use the supplied brackets to hold it in place. You may want to test fit the intercooler piping before torquing down.

Install wastegate dump tube
-Use the supplied dump tube, and face it away from the engine towards the ground. There is only one direction to mount it. If your car is a 97 or 98, then you have to grind down one of the suspension brackets. If you have a 93-96 supra, you shouldn't have to modify anything.
Suspension support bracket (needs to be grinded down for 97-98 supras.

Install downpipe
Now you can install the downpipe.Use the supplied clamp to secure it in place. Make sure the downpipe is centered between the wastegate and body of the car before tightening. You don't want this touching anything.
-secure downpipe with clamp
-screw the two studs w/ hex key ends into the o2 sensor bung
Place stock o2 sensor and gasket on the bung and secure with the factory nuts.

**Kirk** · 11-07-2007, 04:04 PM

Install Intake & Intercooler piping
- go ahead and install the intake pipe and air filter. Use the supplied hose clamps to tighten down. Also repeat this process for the intercooler pipe to go onto a Greddy 3-row. A 4-row requires some modifications, but Kean can hook you up.

Install boost controller
On the compressor housing there is a vacuum port, take one of the fittings supplied and screw it in. Run a hose from the side port of the wastegate to the turbo, go into a T and run the other end to the "in" of the boost controller. Then run a separate hose from the top of the wastegate to the "out" port of the boost controller. Most boost controllers require you to swtich the controller from actuatore to external wastegate. Make sure you check this or else you may not be able to regulate boost. Your boost controller solenoid may vary, so use the manual.

Double Check
Make sure all hoses and pipes are clamped down extremely well. Don't want an intercooler pipe blowing off at 30psi of boost!
You should be ready to go -- Just make sure there is oil in the engine and you have filled your radiator back up with engine coolant. It is also a good idea to pre-oil the turbo before starting.