How to Remove TRAC PUMP and TRAC Actuator

**Kirk** · 11-01-2007, 09:41 AM

PARTS AND TOOLS LIST:

1) JACK
2) LUG WRENCH
3) VARIOUS SIZE WRENCHES AND SOCKETS, especially 10mm, 12mm and 14mm.
4) ONE 10mm x1.0 pitch x 10mm long bolt or 90344-51005 Plug, List 2.63 Cost 1.94 (RECOMMENDED - thanks to cuemaster)
5) 2x 10K ohm Resistors, 1/2 watt (radio shack, ~$1)
6) POSSIBLY BRAKE FLUID

1) The first step that isn't outlined on MKIV is you need to remove the wheel and tire and remove the 2 nuts on the fender liner side to remove the trac pump. There is no need to separate the trac actuator from the actual trac pump before you remove it. If you don't take the wheel and tire off you will have a bracket left over in the engine bay.

Remove the tire, unbolt the fender liner, and remove the nuts that hold the bracket on.

2) The 2 top lines on the TRAC ACTUATOR simply go around to the side of the trac pump and brake fluid reservoir - the brake fluid reservoir line is rubber-capped, and the other line comes off with the trac pump

3) The short side line goes to the brake master cylinder, and is simply removed. The small line from the front is hand-bent to go into that side port that you see in the above picture. DO NOT STRIP THE NUT WHEN YOU RE-THREAD IT INTO THE MASTER CYLINDER OR YOU WILL BE BUYING A NEW LINE OR MAKING ONE.

As far as hand-bending that small tube, first pop it out of that plastic 'holder' that is directly above the master cylinder. Then pull the line down and gently but firmly pull it to give it a slight bend, so that it kind of wraps around close to the driver's side of the master cylinder. This pulling is necessary to get about one more inch on the line so that it can smoothly reach the brake master cylinder. Next, grab the line at it's lowest point with one hand and at the double 90-degree bend near the open fitting with your other hand. With your two hands, rotate the end of the line with the fitting around the front of the master brake cylinder and over onto the passenger side. The fitting starts to the front driver's side of the brake master cylinder and ends up on the driver's side about 1/3 of the way back. Work the line so that the threaded fitting is pointing directly (100% perpendicular in both planes) to the hole in the side of the master brake cylinder. If you work the line with both hands to make sure that all bending&twisting is as gradual as possible, the line will not kink. Just make sure both hands are either bending or twisting simultaneously, with the hand near the threaded fitting twisting/bending doing about twice as much bending/twisting as the hand on the line at the lowest point. Needless to say, stop if you feel any part of the line starting to bend too sharply, but if you are careful I am certain that this will not happen.

As the article states, the big line from the front is removed and is plugged on the other side of the engine bay where it joins the abs cylinder (as attached). You use a 10mm 1.0 pitch bolt to plug the hole on the ABS unit.

4) Get 2x 10K ohm Resistors, 1/2 watt (radio shack, ~$1), insert them in the wiring harness that you unplugged from the trac pump. This will prevent the ABS light from coming on.

5) You MAY need to bleed the brakes. Some have reported they didn't have to do this.

When you get done you will have this mass lying on the floor and this nice hole opened up on your fender.