SC300: 1JZ Swap tutorial

**Kirk** · 10-29-2007, 02:36 PM

Soarer (jzz30) 1jz-gte swap into a Lexus SC300

Parts needed: (some may not come w/ your clip or engine set... Supra is refered to as the MKIV)
1JZ-GTE Soarer engine
1JZ-GTE Soarer ECU
1JZ-GTE Soarer trans (if prefered)
Soarer or Supra side mount intercooler/pipes
Supra Upper/lower radiator hoses (if the ones w/ your engine set are cut)
Supra TT throttle/cruise cable
Soarer/Supra Igniter
A spool of 18g wire
USB Cable
Heatshrink/Solder
New motor mounts (recommended)
MSD Tach adapter (for the tach)
330ohm resistor (for the temp gauge)
HKS Fuel cut defencer (or similar)
Greddy speed limiter cut controller (or similar)
Supra TT/Walbro fuel pump
New plugs (NGK3330's recommended)
New Timing belt (Isuzu Trooper 4 cylinders 2.6 liters, or a Greddy for 5 times the cost)
Necessary fluids

I believe thats about it from what I can remember right now. Not everything listed is needed. Its just the way I would do it.

The swap is pretty much straight forward. It will bolt up to the SC300 auto or manual trans. Or you can opt to use the soarer auto or soarer r-154.

First thing I would do it extend the harness (about 18 inches).

Take off the front bumper, radiator, condensor. This makes it easier to pull the NA motor our and put the 1jz in. The hood should come off too.

Of course you know to unplug your stock harness and pull it through the firewall and unplug the necessary things that need to be unplugged. (atleast I hope so if your attempting to do a motor swap) so ill skip all that... I would unbolt the a/c compressor and leave it to the side so you dont have to re-charge the a/c system. Thats your choice. Pull the NA motor out and drop the 1jz in.

The 1jz will bolt up to the stock motor mount locations on the SC300 and on the SC400. It will go in with the downpipe connected (just takes a little more time). Bolt it up, route the harness through the firewall and everything plugs right in. The plug that goes down to the power steering rack&pinion from near the alternator needs to be lengthened a few inches. The SC300 fan shroud will work w/ the 1jz fan.

Make sure the tach adapter is wired in or else you wont get a tach reading. The 330omh resistor for the temp gauge goes behind the intrument cluster on the yellow wire w/ the green stripe. You will probably get an airbag light on. Im not sure why it comes on but I just took the bulb out.

Thats pretty much it to get the 1j up and running. Im sure im missing a few things so just ask and ill probably remember......

Im using the Soarer Torsen rear end w/ my set-up. I highly recommend using some sort of LSD when doing this swap. One wheel wonders are no fun. You can use the Supra TT rear ends, but the flange where the d/s connects to the diff needs to be swapped w/ a supra one.

For fluids im using mobil1 10w-30 full synthetic, toyota coolant w/ distilled water and a bottle of water wetter, toyota type-iv trans fluid. You might notice that your car seems to run a little hotter than the NA when you open your hood after a drive. Its normal. Most of the jz-gte's tend to seem a little warm under the hood.

Im using NGK plugs -7(6097 i think) gapped at .028. .030 works if your on stock boost but you want to close it up some if you plan on running higher boost. When diong oil changes I use the Supra oil filter. Part #-90915-YZZD3. There is also another oil filter I have that works. It's about an inch shorter than the one I use, but the part# for that is- 90915-YZZD1

If you are doing the stock swap, stock boost is around 10psi. The twins are ct-12a's therefore the blades are ceramic. If you didnt know, ceramic blades dont like high boost. The highest boost I run on the street is around 16psi (1.11bar to be exact). Most of the Aussies dont push much if any over that as the turbos tend to give w/ all that boost. I have however hit 21 psi in first gear one time just seeing how high it will climb and blew an intercooler pipe. That was a one time only type of thing though. hehe.

When upgrading the 1jz, 95% of the 2jz-gte parts are usable. All but one or 2 of the sensors are exactly the same as the 1jz (what a coinsidence). The basic bolt on part mostly interchangable.

2jz-gte parts that need modding to work on a 1jz:
Catback exhaust
downpipes
Cam gears
Turbo manifolds (the bolt flanges)
Intake manifolds (bolt flanges again)
radiators (mainly fluidyne)
injectors
valve cover gasket

2jz-gte parts that work w/ out modding:
Pulley's including the crank pulley
Waterpump's
internals
intakes
intercoolers
drive belt
alternator
a/c compressor
p/s pump
strut bars
suspension components
wheels (mkiv offsets fit pretty well on the SC)
spark plugs
ignition coils
oil filters